Care for your furniture

  • Blot spills immediately with a clean, dry, white cloth.
  • Do not set hot or damp items directly on furniture.
  • Use felt pads to protect surfaces from scratches and imprints.
Upholstered furniture plays an important part of the look and feel of your home decor. Fabric adds softness, comfort, beauty and style to any home. But because upholstery is susceptible to staining and collecting dust, it is important to care and maintain it properly.

Because dust and dirt cause fabrics to wear faster, we recommend vacuuming regularly with an upholstery attachment.

Flip, rotate, and fluff removable cushions regularly to ensure even wear and increase longevity. This is especially true for down cushions.

Over time, most fabrics will fade somewhat, especially when placed in direct sunlight. If your furniture will be in direct sunlight, you might want to consider choosing Sunbrella fabric.

An annual professional cleaning will keep your upholstery looking its best.

Pilling is a characteristic of many upholstery fabrics. This is a result of excess fiber coming off the surface of the material. The release of excess fiber results in small “balls” or “pills” forming on the surface of the upholstery. This condition is NOT warranted by the fabric mills as it is NOT considered a defect, but simply the fiber on each individual strand of thread used to weave the material working through the weave itself. The occurrence is very similar to the “fuzzing” experienced with new carpeting or the “pilling” of a new sweater.

The concern on the part of most consumers is that the fabric is disintegrating and will ultimately have a “bald” area on the cover. That is not the case. As with carpets and sweaters, the pilling will persist until the excess fiber is gone. Only then will the pilling cease.

The best treatment while the fabric is piling is to simply shave the cover with a battery operated furniture or sweater shaver (available at most retail stores), and then thoroughly vacuuming to remove the loose fibers. This will remove the pills and restore the look to the fabric surface. This type of maintenance may need to be done three or four times until the piling on the surface begins to diminish and ultimately stops completley.

UBU offers a 5 year comprehensive warranty plan from Guardsman. If you purchased this with your furniture and have an accidental spill, cut or other concern, please contact Guardsman within 5 days of occurrence . Please refer to the warranty which you received upon delivery or contact Guardsman via their website at

All fabrics have a cleaning code that needs to be considered before spot cleaning is done.

S = Solvent. Use only water-free, pure cleaning solvents.

W = Water. Use only water-based upholstery cleaning products.

SW = Solvent or water. Either type of cleaning will be effective.

X = Use professional cleaning only. Use of water or solvent cleaners may damage the fabric.

If you do not have Guardsman protection or for spots that do not require a claim, you will get the best results if you treat stains immediately. Blot up as much of the spill as possible with a clean, dry, white cloth, working from the outer edge to the center of the stain. Do not rub.

If necessary, make sure the cleaning product you use corresponds to the fabric’s cleaning code. Test any cleaner in an inconspicuous area first. Continue to apply cleaner sparingly and blot until the stain no longer transfers onto the cloth. This may take several attempts.

For cleaning of slipcovers, we recommend professional dry cleaning. Always clean the entire slipcover to prevent color variations and ensure even wear.

Make sure to fasten all Velcro and close all zippers before cleaning.

Leather will naturally stretch and soften with use, adding to its comfort and character. It may show the natural markings of the different hides from which it is made. These markings, including brands, healed scars, and patterns of original hair follicles are considered desirable because they define the piece as a natural original.

To keep leather looking its best, remove dust and minor soiling from smooth leathers with a damp cloth once a month. For suede or nubuck leathers, gently vacuum once a month with the appropriate tool or brush.

If the cushions are removable, make sure you rotate and fluff them regularly to ensure even wear and increase longevity.

Protect the leather by using a leather conditioner periodically.

UBU offers a 5 year comprehensive warranty plan from Guardsman. If you purchased this with your furniture and have had an accidental spill, cut, or other concern, please contact Guardsman as soon as possible. Please refer to the warranty which you received upon delivery or contact Guardsman via their website at

Just as trees in the forest are not the same, wood furniture is always unique. It is one of the most beautiful surfaces for furniture. From smooth and sleek to intentionally distressed, solid wood to quality veneers, make sure to take good care of it so that the wood will keep its natural beauty.

Moisture and heat can damage any wood finish. Protect your furniture by using coasters and trivets.

Avoid dragging sharp or rough objects across the surface of your wood furniture. Using adhesive felt pads, trivets, coasters or placemats will help prevent scratches.

UBU has many options for wood furniture that has a catalyzed finish. Catalyzing a finish creates a harder and more durable finish.

Minor scratches or damage may be touched up with Guardsman furniture touch-up markers (available at UBU).

Maintain consistent humidity levels to minimize seasonal expansion and contraction of wood and prevent warping.

Make sure to keep the doors of your tables or cabinets closed rather than allow them to hang open, which can cause them to warp.

Over time, air and sunlight will change the color of natural wood. Try to expose table leaves to the same amount of air and light as your table.

We recommend dusting wood furniture with a soft dry cloth or with a Guardsman dusting cloth. If you need something more than these, do not use a wax-based wood cleaner since they can dull the finish.

Shedding is normal in high-quality wool rugs. It is a natural process inherent to the material and will decrease over time. The amount of shedding will depend on the traffic pattern and use of your rug.

If the ends on your rug are curling, roll the ends in the opposite direction for a time until the rug relaxes.

Do not use the beater bar when vacuuming as it may cause damage to your rug.

Rotate your rug every six months to avoid uneven fading and wear patterns.

Using a rug pad will extend the life of your rug, prevent slipping, and provide cushioning, (available at UBU).

Important Definitions

When making a leather furniture choice, various materials may meet your requirements. This information is intended to help you determine what product you are being offered and to assist you in deciding what you want in your home based on your budget, needs and an informed understanding of various product types.

The following terms are often used to describe the differences in furniture leather and other upholstery products:

Top-grain leather: This leather comes from the outermost upper layer of the cowhide, and is the only leather recommended for all high quality sofa leather. The best top-grain hides reflect that the animal has lived in an environment that resulted in limited scratches, insect bites or other damage. These hides can be minimally processed and used in their most natural form. Generally, less processing allows the hide to be softer and display a more natural character.

Corrected Leather: Corrected leather has been significantly processed so that lower quality top-grain hides may be used. Corrected means the application of more chemicals and paint, the stamping of an artificial texture and other processes. This tends to produce leather that is not as soft as less-processed top-grain but has a more uniform look and finish, making the product very durable. Corrected leather allows for a lower price for the final product. It is often best suited for recreational rooms or other places that require exceptional durability.

Protected Leather: This is simply another way of saying “corrected” leather, except it may not be limited to top-grain. It refers to the fact that enough paint or other finish was applied to make the surface more durable than a more natural and less-processed leather.

Split Leather: The process of tanning leather involves reducing the hide to the thickness required for upholstered products. The back of an animal has a thicker skin, so it is “split” to create a piece of leather out of this extra thickness. This is real leather but has no natural surface and lacks the strength of top-grain leather. Split leather is processed by correcting the leather, giving it a stamped and painted surface that approximates a top grain, and then used for the backs and sides of sofas to reduce the cost of the final product. This use is legitimate and appropriate but the consumer should be informed when split leather is used.

Leather-Match: This term is used to describe an upholstered product where a portion of the product is real leather but the back, sides or less visible parts are constructed of an artificial material, usually vinyl. It is matched to look like leather. Leather-match is often used on motion furniture or recliners but can be used on any upholstered product. It is a method of creating a product that offers the sight and touch of real sofa leather but significantly reduces the final price.

Bi-cast Leather: This product comes in roll form like a fabric rather than the shape of an animal hide. It is really a plastic product that contains leather but in a manner where the customer neither can see nor feel the leather. The product uses the lower-value and lower-cost split leather as the backing of the product and creates a finish by applying a sheet of plastic on the front surface, usually polyurethane (PU), to provide the color, texture and strength. This product tends to be fairly stiff and is usually produced in dark colors only.

Bonded Leather: The term serves no purpose other than to permit the use of the word “leather” to be associated with the product. This is really a PU (polyurethane) product that has leather shavings sprayed onto the back. The top layer showing the outer color and texture is PU. The strength and carrier of the product is a thin fabric in the center. The leather shavings are applied on the back as described.

Bonded Leather Match: This is a construction where some bonded leather is used on a product and the balance is normally the same product without leather shavings. The purpose of the match is to reduce cost, while the purpose of the bonded leather is to allow the term “leather” to be associated with what is essentially a plastic or PU product. The product may be attractive and appropriate for certain consumer applications but it is not leather.

Polyurethane (PU): This is a very effective form of plastic that can be applied to fabric or other products to create beautiful and durable surfaces. The product is considered safe if appropriate materials and dyes are used, and is recommended for applications that are price-sensitive and require a high degree of durability. PU is very versatile. It can be made to replicate leather, suede and any number of other surfaces.

Vinyl: A product similar to PU but normally not as durable or versatile. It is normally lower in cost than PU so is used for “match” applications where strength is not an issue.

Nubuck: This is a term that has historically been associated with suede leather but is not a legal term. It is sometimes used for artificially produced forms of suede. If the price is exceptionally low, it is likely not real leather.

Microfiber: This is a unique form of fabric that is constructed in a manner that allows for various surface types, and can provide attractive characteristics in strength and durability. Unfortunately, this product can be produced at many price and quality levels so the term itself has little meaning in establishing its relative value.

Proprietary Terms: Manufacturers of non-leather products and producers of finished upholstered product frequently develop their own proprietary terms to describe their product (i.e. using invented names, such as combing “new” and “hide” with creative spelling.) As you can imagine, a frequent characteristic of these names is the tendency to use terms that imply strength and durability, or are associated with leather. Typically none of these names apply to real leather. The product they describe is usually a bonded leather or a polyurethane product. The product itself may be appropriate but the consumer should seek clarity as to what the product really is constructed of.